Teal Merino Jumper

Another jumper to round out the winter wear. This jumper was also in my last post with my pais-liberty skirt, but here it is on its own. This is a very simple jumper in a pattern I've used many times for various tops because it's a simple and versatile shape that works as everything from a t-shirt to a jumper.

The merino is from The Fabric Store. It's a teal colour with a darker greenish blue pattern that looks a bit like it belongs on tiles. It's a heavier merino at 240gsm, and is more of a Hacci knit than a jersey. It's very soft and light but still warm. And fortunately it isn't itchy, which wool can often be.

The pattern is the epaullette sleeve top from Japanese sewing book She Has A Mannish Style, but I've narrowed the sleeves and narrowed and lengthened the body. Because I have the Japanese version of the book rather than the English translation I have to follow the pictures as my only instructions. As is typical with Japanese patterns the seam allowances aren't included. Given I wanted to narrow and lengthen the pattern that mostly didn't matter, except that I forgot to add seam allowance at the neckline so it's a littly wider than ideal.

I used the selvedge of the fabric for the sleeve cuffs so I could leave them unfinished. Both the hem and neckline are hand finished in order to keep the jumper looking neat. I always prefer this look, and it was especially good on the hem here because I had cut it slightly unevenly, which would have been highlighted by visible stitching.

The jumper is photographed here on a week away down the south coast and featuring the roots and base of the trunk of the largest Moreton Bay Fig I've ever seen. This jumper is one that can be casual with jeans like I'm wearing here or worn to work with a more professional skirt or pants.

I had plans for more a little more cool weather clothes after this jumper, but Sydney seems to have flicked the switch straight from winter to summer so I'm not sure how much need I'll have for long sleeves now. I will wear it when I can though, because it's very comfortable and soft.

Liberty Tie-back Trapeze Top

Before winter leaves Sydney I'm trying to get a little more cool weather sewing done. This jumper is the first, bit of that, I'll see how many more I get done before the weather warms up.

The fabric is Liberty loopback 'Jody' in green, bought at The Fabric Store. It's a loopback rather than a fleece, so it's warm but not hot so I can wear it more of the year. There's a growing amount of Liberty fabric at The Fabric Store and it's well priced (still expensive, but cheaper than other places) so I'm glad that the Surry Hills store is just a bit too far from the office for me to get there and back during my lunch hour, and their opening hours mean I can't get there after work either. Otherwise I'd visit too often and spend too much.

The pattern is from the Japanese sewing book, Couturier Sewing Class. When I was flipping through the book in Kinokuniya this jumper was the pattern that stood out to me and was the reason I bought the book. The top has a raglan sleeve, a tie back and shoulder darts to give it a bit more structure. The pattern is one of two versions in the book, there is also a dress length version.

The fabric is a knit, but is a stable knit so it doesn't have a lot of stretch. That makes it work really well with the slightly structured nature of this jumper, expecially because it allows the trapeze shape to keep its shape. It also means the bow for the tie back stays upright and in place. So overall, this type of fabric is just right for the pattern, and the feminine floral print is a nice contrast with the structured shape.

As is common with Japanese pattern books the sizing needs some adjustments. This pattern book is designed for a slightly older sewist than the stylish dress books, with the sizing starting slightly larger, covering small to extra large. However the heights are shorter for this book, under 160cm for the small and medium, and up to 165 for the large and extra large. The small's bust, waist and hip measurements were right for me, but I'm taller than the tallest height. Given the pattern also has a dress option, I traced out the extra large dress length and simply cut the top further down than the pattern suggested.

The top was very easy to cut out and to sew, and extremely quick to put together. It's probably a good pattern to make if you've been feeling uninspired and want something good that's fast to restart your creative juices. It's also extremely wearable. I've already worn it twice, both with jeans and with a skirt, so it's versatile which makes it a good wardrobe staple. I definitely recommend this pattern and this sewing book as one to look out for.

Silver Waves Bowline Sweater

I've said it before, I'm a fan of NZ company Papercut Patterns. I've made a few of Katie's patterns and they're always great. The Ahoy collection was released back in February, and I snapped up three of the patterns. I've already made the Moana Dress, and now here's number two, the Bowline Sweater.

The Bowline Sweater is a raglan sleeve jumper with a folded pleated front. The fabric I used is one I had in my stash, a silver knit I picked up last year at Spotlight because it was on sale. I didn't have a plan for it but bought it because sparkly and shiny are fun, and I knew I'd find something to make with it. It's the thickness of a t-shirt knit, but the metallic thread makes it slightly heavier and slinkier, giving it a different drape to most knits.

Because the Bowline has that pleated front I wanted a fabric that wouldn't look messy with drapes and folds. I've seen quite a few striped versions, which work really well, But I am trying to use my stash more this year (it's not entirely working, but I'm trying), so looked at what I already had that might work. I thought the silver would work well because although it's a plain fabric, light hitting the top would interplay with the folds and drape and bring out the shine, like light playing across waves.

As with all Papercut Patterns, the instructions are well-written and clear. The front is a very confusing-looking pattern piece, but it's actually easy to follow and put together. Although I didn't pay complete attention to the layout for cutting the pattern out, so my front is actually mirror imaged. I've done that before when I was in too much of a rush to get on to my machine. It generally doesn't change the garment at all, but it is a slightly annoying error.

The fit is a bit of a mix, but not in a bad way. The raglan sleeves are relatively fitted, with long cuffs to pull down over your hands (I do that a lot, as you can probably see in the photos). The rest of the jumper is fairly loose. When I first finished it I felt that the front hung down over the waistband a bit too much, so I removed the waistband, cut the front piece on a curve so that the centre was shorter than the sides, then reattached the waistband. It still drapes but no longer overhangs.

I say this with each Papercut Pattern, but I really like this. It's an interesting take on a jumper, and can be made as a casual top or a more fancy one - which isn't easy to find in a jumper. And I'm glad I bought the silver knit last year, because it really was the perfect fabric for this pattern.

The Lola Jumper

It is cold down here in Sydney, so it's jumper and cardi season. I haven't owned a fleecy jumper in years because I never liked any I saw in stores, but last year I made the Lola Dress by Victory Patterns, an empire line princess seamed fleece dress, and it was wonderful and cosy and easy to make. So I decided it would be a good base pattern to adapt for a jumper.  

I bought the fabric at Spotlight, in the clearance section, for $8 a metre. They had a lot of other fleeces - there are lots of fleeces with assorted animals on them around at the moment! - but none of them really grabbed me. This one, with windows and clocks and buildings printed on it, was probably the simplest print, and colourwise goes with more thins. And being half the price of the others, I decided it was the best one.

Because the original pattern is an empire line dress with a scooped back seam and elbow-length sleeves, I obviously had to lengthen everything. I also went up three sizes so that it would be roomier without  being too oversized. I got the roominess right, but I didn't quite add enough length. Even though I measured it before cutting it out, even thinking I'd added a bit more than I might need but would be able to trim it back if necessary, my measuring was obviously off. It finishes about an inch and a half shorter than I'd planned on the sleeves and the waist, making it a slightly cropped jumper when it wasn't really meant to be. But the cuffs keep the warmth in, so the length isn't really an issue.

I like that the curved hem makes the jumper longer at the back. I don't know about others, but I find that my lower back being exposed on a cold day makes me feel colder than anything else. Although the jumper is a little cropped, it still ends far enough down at the back to keep me covered up and warm.

The jumper was very easy to make, the instructions are straightforward and easy to follow. Although attaching the ribbing is a bit tricky. I swear it takes more time just to get the ribbing pinned evenly than it does to sew the entire jumper! I really think it needs three hands to properly get it in place, unless you want it to be very loose.